Monthly Archives: September 2013

Cooking Detail

Cooking Detail

Tour du Canada is a no frills trip by bicycle across Canada touching all ten provinces.  Our 2013 group of riders numbered twenty-five, which was divided into five cooking groups of five people.  Once every five or six days, our group was responsible for preparing supper and the following breakfast for the entire group.  The menu was already set, and daily, Adam, our truck driver, would shop for the groceries needed to prepare the supper and breakfast.  Also, Adam would keep the supply of bread and bulk quantity items well stocked allowing the riders to keep sufficiently fuelled.

our stove, a 3-burner propane unit, is between Mike and Bill;  In front are two large pots always on to boil for meal prep or hygiene; area is makeshift kitchen

our stove, a 3-burner propane unit, is between Mike and Bill; In front are two large pots always on to boil for meal prep or hygiene; area is makeshift kitchen

Our cook crew consisted of Mike from Liverpool, England, Bill from the Kensington Market area of Toronto, and Joyce and me.  Joyce and I are still together, after close quarters for many weeks, and living in Huntsville, normally.  We lost Rob, also of England, since he was shifted to another group.   Although we had specific duties, we’d all pitch in to help where necessary to facilitate the effort and provide the best meal possible.  It was a great cook group, each of us enjoying the experience of working together.

#1 cook crew:  Mike, Dan, Joyce, and Bill at Camp Daoust, Hudson, PQ

#1 cook crew: Mike, Dan, Joyce, and Bill at Camp Daoust, Hudson, PQ

 

Segment 8 – Sault Ste. Marie to Tottenham, Ontario

Segment 8  -  Sault Ste. Marie to Tottenham, Ontario

Our rest day Monday, 29 July was atypical since it was truly a rest day.  It had rained during the night, so after hanging camping gear to dry, we lounged about.  The campground was far enough from town that riding there on an off-day was not a thought for many including Joyce and me.  While Joyce did the laundry, I was helping others with minor bike problems, checking e-mail, and working on the blog to fill the day.  For supper, the group got together and ordered many pizzas, which seemed to inundate the pizzeria since the order was slow in coming.  No matter!  The pizzas went down nicely.  A beautiful, restful day on the banks of the St. Mary River came to an end shortly after supper with tent time.

Next morning, Bill, Joyce and I departed the campground by 7:30 am.  We weren’t on Highway #17B long when our directions took us onto #638.  The highway number was a good indication that we’d be following a hilly, meandering road.  To add to a tough ride, the road surface was rough hardtop.  In Bruce Mines, about four hours later, we were back on Highway #17 and its narrow, paved shoulder.  A restaurant stop in Thessalon and an obvious stop at Tim Hortons in Blind River, since others in the group had congregated there, including some ol’ stand-by PBJ supplements, fuelled us the rest of the way to Serpent River Campground.  Our top notch, secluded campsite next to the river was separated from the main part of the campground by railway tracks.  We were in the tent, asleep, by 8:30 pm. with that 170k day completed.

typical scenery during this segment

typical scenery during this segment

Louise then Joyce on #638 with more typical scenery

Louise then Joyce on #638 with more typical scenery

The railway tracks, a mere fifty metres away, must be a main line.  Two trains passed during the night.  The train whistles didn’t awaken me, but the severe shaking of the ground certainly did.  All I could think was, “Please, don’t derail!”.  Sleep returned quickly until our normal 5:30 am. alarm.

Leaving the campground, the highway’s shoulder began to narrow and  deteriorate as we biked east.  By 10:00 am., two hours after our start, we were in Massey, where we stopped for a PBJ break.  There, we continued to follow the days’ directions along a back road into Espanola.  In spite of the road resurfacing, the route was preferable to #17.  Seven of us amassed in a bakery shop for coffee, soup and sandwich.  When we left Espanola into headwinds, we were grateful for the food break.  About four o’clock we crossed the bridge onto Manitoulin Island and into Little Current, most of us stopping at the ice cream store on Highway #6.  At $4.40 for a double, the cone was “highway robbery”.  By 5:30 pm., we arrived at our Sheguindah campground.  The superb, spaghetti dinner that evening capped another, arduous day.

Mike, the group's official "taste tester", seemed oblivious to the price

Mike, the group’s official “taste tester”, seemed oblivious to the price

The first of August, the ride was a short 60k to South Baymouth, the ferry port, delaying our tent exit to 6:35 am.  We still managed to leave camp by 8:11 am., for the two and a half hour ride to the ferry dock, ample time for the 1:30 pm. sailing.  Our spare time was put to good use at a restaurant for bacon and eggs topped off with a slice of raspberry pie, . . . a la mode, of course.  An interesting, local museum filled in the remaining time.

View NE from lookout along #6 on Manitoulin Island

View NE from lookout along #6 on Manitoulin Island

nursery along #6

nursery along #6

What a life!  Aboard the Chi Cheemaun

What a life! Aboard the Chi Cheemaun

The ferry ride of one hour forty-five minutes was a perfect length of coffee break.  Once in the busy, tourist town of Tobermory, it was interesting to sit back and put up your feet to simply “watch as the world passed by”.  However, Joyce and I didn’t dwell in town for long since we were on cook duty that evening.  By 4:20 pm., relatively early, we were in camp and preparing the evening’s supper.

Tobermory

Tobermory

All Fords south of Tobermory

All Fords south of Tobermory; dream on, Dan

Our only route south from camp, next day, was busy Highway #6.  About forty kilometres along, a quiet road to the east took us off  #6 and led us into Wiarton past bush and farmland.  Like a “pied piper”, Mike turned into Tim Hortons and Joyce, Bill, and I were quick to follow.  With our caffeine and sugar kick satisfied, we followed the shoreline-hugging road east from Wiarton.  There were great vistas of Colpoy Bay.  But, the ominous looking sky to the east along the sound concealed any views the further we cycled south.  Eventually, to rejoin #6 southbound into Owen Sound, our route turned west, uphill, into the wind, and rain drops.  We donned our rain coats. Somewhat of a false alarm, little rain fell as we rolled into Harrison Park Campground.  We learned that riders, who had arrived earlier, experienced a downpour in camp.

threatening rain storm skirted us acrross sound

threatening rain storm skirted us across sound

It was Friday night of the Civic Holiday Weekend.  The campground  was bustling.  Alot of the patrons were dog owners in town for the weekend’s dog show.  The chorus of yipping dogs, quite evident until dark, was not a concern during the night.

Joyce and I arose, packed, ate, and departed camp in good time anticipating our rest day at home tomorrow, 04 August.  Mike, from England, rode with us for the day since we’d invited him to our home for a change of pace.  The ride was hilly around the edges of the Dufferin Highlands, the high point of Southern Ontario, until we connected with the rail trail into Collingwood where we enjoyed a Tim Hortons and lunch break.

Joyce and Mike on rail trail in Collingwood area

Joyce and Mike on rail trail in Collingwood area

Mike and Joyce leaving the highlands;  Georgian Bay in background

Mike and Joyce leaving the highlands; Georgian Bay in background

  We got more of a taste of the highlands on our push to Tottenham, particularly a steep downhill into Creemore.  A lively “farm fest” was in full swing on the closed, main street.  Next stop was Everett, where a visit to an ice cream parlour was unavoidable.  Their 2-scoop, $3.50 cone was a dandy deal, almost convincing me that the first cone should be a “practice cone”. 

 

Creemore Main Street

Creemore Main Street

 

 

Eighteen kilometres from camp, we came upon two cyclists lounging beside the road.  Good friend, Ron Jacques, and a fellow named Larry, had come out from Tottenham to meet us.  Both were riders in the 1988 Tour du Canada, its inaugural year.  Ron and Larry were part of that 1988 contingent, who were gathering at the campsite to celebrate Tour du Canada’s 25th anniversary.  Congratulations!  Tour du Canada has helped many to see this awesome country in a way few have seen it, from the seat of a bicycle.

Dan, Mike, Joyce, and Ron (1988 TdC)

Dan, Mike, Joyce, and Ron (1988 TdC)

Joyce minutes from camp

Joyce minutes from camp

Ron, generously, had volunteered to drive us back to Huntsville.  Once finished celebrating and packing, Ron, Mike, Joyce and I were Huntsville-bound to begin our rest day and our only summer visit home.  

Segment  8  -  Sault Ste. Marie to Tottenham

Location  /  Date Time camp to camp Time on bike Max. speed Avg. speed Distance Trip to date
Spragge 10:17 7:55 52.7 21.5 170.8 3840.5
Sheguindah 9:32 6:49 50.6 19.7 134.5 3975.0
Tobermory 8:09 3:13 39.0 19.5 62.9 4037.9
Owen Sound 7:36 5:56 66.2 22.0 130.4 4168.3
Tottenham 9:18 7:10 69.0 20.3 155.7 4324.0

 

Our Lifeline – the truck

Our lifeline – the Truck

our truck conveniently parked at Lac Michelle Campground, PQ

our truck conveniently parked at Lac Michelle Campground, PQ

A five-ton truck follows the Tour du Canada riders across the country going from campground to campground with necessities.  On the left side of the rear compartment of the truck from the front to back are three columns of seven shelves for the riders, a small fridge, a large fridge and shelves for pots, pans, and utensils.  Above the small fridge are outlets for the plethora of electronics without which our world cannot live including cell phones, laptops, and bike computers with rechargeable batteries.  Above the large fridge are racks of bread.  At the rear is the coffee maker and supplies for those cranky, morning people including me.

rear left side with important coffee maker and supplies

rear left side with important coffee maker and supplies

On the right side of the compartment there is another column of shelves for the riders.  Next is the side door, then more shelving for food, some bulk-quantity, food bins such as oats (porridge), powdered milk, pancake mix, and gorp.  Three, five-gallon jugs for water are at the rear.

right side showing food shelves

right side showing food shelves

Each rider is entitled to a shelf which is large enough to hold two laundry baskets (supplied).  Outfitting oneself and reasonably packing, the shelf holds what is required during the ten-week tour including clothes, shoes, toiletries, and personal effects.  Each rider is responsible to bring a “mess kit”, a plate, bowl, cup, knife, fork, and spoon, which is kept in a bag and hung out of the way when not in use.

shelves for personal belongings

shelves for personal belongings

The large fridge keeps the perishables like fruit, vegetables, yogurt, milk (made daily from powder), and anything required to be frozen.  A second smaller fridge keeps pop and beer (who’d have thought) cool for our arrival in camp at night.

When in transit, the aisle is packed with riders’ duffel bags containing tent, thermarests, and sleeping bags near the front.  The three-burner, propane stove takes up considerable space in the centre part of the aisle.  Near the rear, four, collapsible tables and canopes (rainy weather or for shade) are stored.

This summer, Adam was our truck driver on whom we came to depend.  Adam was a University of Guelph student who performed the job admirably.

Bill, Adam, Joyce, and Megan during requested water stop east of Canmore

Bill, Adam, Joyce, and Megan during requested water stop east of Canmore

Normally, the truck would follow the rider’s route to the next campground.  When Adam passed us, we would tap the top of our helmet if we required anything from the truck, primarily more water, food, or minor first aid supplies.  Otherwise, each rider was to carry what they needed daily including water, food (fruit and PBJ sandwiches), personal articles (camera, phone), and appropriate clothing.

Segment 7 – Thunder Bay to Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario

Strong, gusty winds and cool temperatures greeted us as we left the comfortable confines of Lakehead U. residence.  Our pace to begin was slow since Joyce and I had just finished four, forced days of rest other than for a casual jaunt about Thunder Bay.  Our cooking crew of Bill, Joyce, Mike, Rob and I pedalled together making our first stop at High Park.  This perch gives you an excellent view of Thunder Bay, Lake Superior, and, the “Sleeping Giant”.  We continued on to a stirring, inspirational monument on Highway #17, that of Terry Fox, a true national hero.  Naturally, photographs were in order, and, once done, we continued on.

Sleeping Giant

Sleeping Giant

 

Bill, Dan, Rob, & Mike

Bill, Dan, Rob, & Mike

Terry Fox, a true Canadian hero

Terry Fox, a true Canadian hero

The recently opened, 4-lane section of #17 adjacent to the monument necessitated some creative cycling until we could access the parallel, secondary road, which would eventually return us to the 2-lane #17 further east.  The area was typical Northern Ontario, bush, little civilization, and a hilly, serpentine road following the terrain.  We passed, unknowingly, the area of my 2009 mishap, and once bustling businesses, now closed. 

Harvey’s General Store was our next stop of significance where we bought a drink and took a break.  Quite the commotion was occurring simultaneously.  An ambulance and police car had scurried past, lights flashing.  An air ambulance wasn’t far behind.  Eight of us learned that the highway east of us was closed, a serious accident involving two cyclists.  Our hearts sank!  Our group headed eastbound, hoping for the best, fearing the worst.

After an hour’s cycling and having passed kilometers of stopped vehicles, we came to the accident scene.  Adam gave us news that we had dreaded.  Two fellow cyclists, Irene and Bob Booth were dead.  A pickup truck had hit them.  The accident is still under investigation.

In 2009, Bob Booth was a co-rider who finished the tour that year.  He was one of two co-riders who, compassionately, visited Joyce and me in Nipigon Hospital after my mishap.  Bob answered a May 2013 e-mail which I’d sent out to the 2009 riders that Joyce and I were “on the road again” for this year’s tour.  We were delighted when Bob informed us that he was doing the Tour du Canada again, this time with his wife, Irene.  Irene was a charming, affable individual who increased our delight.  Irene and Joyce became good friends.

ViCARS  and the Town of Nipigon sprung into action and provided us with meals and a roof over our heads in the community centre, respectively, that night, Tuesday, 23 July.  Bud Jorgenson, tour operator, attended.  Nipigon volunteer residents provided a good breakfast the following morning.   The group huddled together, grieved, and continued the Tour in Bob’s and Irene’s memory.  May they rest in peace, together!

Some riders opted to be shuttled to Terrace Bay, our next campsite.  Others chose to ride part way.  Myra, Louise, Bill, Mike, Joyce and I, joined by a few others during the day, decided to ride the entire distance.  Much of our day’s ride was tough over rough pavement prepared for resurfacing.  Lunching at a lookout provided great scenery for a mid-day respite.  Mid-afternoon, we joined others in Rossport at the Serendipity Restaurant for soup and blueberry shortcake.  Somewhat expensive, the food was delicious, the break welcomed.  What began as a cool, cloudy day improved as sun and warmer temperatures accompanied us into camp located at the rear of the town public school.  Good shower facilities at the neighbouring community centre made for a good, campsite combination.

navigating through the construction zone

navigating through the construction zone

Joyce and Louise during a break

Joyce and Louise during a break

Mike, official taste tester, convinced us to order the blueberry cheesecake

During the night, rain began and was intermittent when we broke camp.  Joyce’s rear tire finally would not hold air due to a puncture by a piece of wire not much bigger than a hair.  Michel helped us to fix the flat.  Then, off we went . . . into the rain.  Cycling was steady with few options or reasons for stopping.  Marathon was our best bet, but we were disappointed since we’d have to detour four kilometres into town . . . into the rain, downhill.  We three, Joyce, Michel and I, used the visitor’s centre to warm up and enjoy a complimentary coffee.  Michel made arrangements for us to join him in warm, dry accommodations at Gloria’s Motel & Restaurant near White Lake.  The owners were accommodating driving Joyce and Michel to the campground for clean, dry clothes.  The restaurant and laundry facilities served us well.

After a great night’s sleep, the day began with a large breakfast in the restaurant.  I noticed looking out the window that the thermometer was registering 10*C.  The flag was out full in the easterly wind.  The rain was falling hard.  After yesterday’s rain, how could there be anything left?  Discouraging!  Reluctantly, we departed in the driving rain becoming well drenched within our first kilometre.  A couple hours into the ride, a dozen donuts and coffee at Robins in White River lifted our spirits and blood glucose.  Several others had the same idea, and our donuts disappeared.  The rain stopped prior to continuing our ride eastward.  But, as we entered Wawa, the rain resumed necessitating a stop at the local Tim Horton’s for warmth and sustenance.  Only for a short time over the next forty kilometres into camp did the rain stop.  It was a damp evening as we set up camp and ate.  It was two hours past our normal time of about 8:30 to retire when we finally got to bed.

Joyce outfitted for the weather

Joyce outfitted for the weather

On Saturday, 27 July, we awakened to rain, again.  Thankfully, it stopped in order for us to break camp.  Our stops for the day included Agawa Bay lookout and the Lake Superior visitor’s centre where we had a coffee, the old, stand-by, PBJ sandwich, and lube . . . for the chains, that is.  By now, the day was looking brighter.  Although we had left Rabbit Blanket Campground at 8:35 am., relatively late, we arrived in Pancake Bay Campground in a reasonable time at 5:00 pm.  Spirits were high.  The sun was shining.   Everybody had their camping gear drying in any patch of sunlight which could be found.  Our cook crew was on duty for supper and tomorrow’s breakfast.  Our fellow riders were pleased with our supper preparation of pork chops, mashed potatoes, veggies, and our impromptu attempt for applesauce.  Fruit bowl capped the meal.

Dan & Joyce at Agawa Bay lookout

Dan & Joyce at Agawa Bay lookout

Mike and Joyce cooking pork chops for supper.

Mike and Joyce cooking pork chops for supper.

Our efforts at drying out were somewhat in vain.  Rain was falling, again, when we arose next morning.  Our mileage for the day was a short 87.8k, so we left the tent up in the hopes of it drying while we tended to preparing breakfast.  Normally, breakfast consists of dry cereal, porridge, and yogurt.  Pancakes were also on the menu this morning. 

We left camp about 9:20 am.  At 9:21 am., a few, pedal revolutions into the ride, Joyce stopped at the gift shop just down the road.  There was an ice cream counter, but Bill, Mike, and I resisted.  Good choice since two hours along, we stopped at the Chippewa Restaurant to indulge in a second breakfast of bacon and eggs.  We were preparing for “one mile hill” just north of the Soo.  On route, many locals warned us of the climb and commended us for our ambition.  The hill was actually 2.7k.  Having just completed riding through Northern Ontario, it was but a minor irritation.  A banana split at the Dairy Queen as we entered the Soo was a just reward, which we couldn’t resist when our bikes turned into the lot.  When we arrived in camp about 4:40 pm., everybody was quick to unpack their camping gear.  By now, it was windy with sun and cloud, great conditions for drying.  A terrific, spaghetti dinner ended this segment and the day on the eve of our next rest day.

Chippewa Falls

Chippewa Falls

 

One Mile Hill

One Mile Hill

rest day in Sault Ste. Marie

rest day in Sault Ste. Marie

Segment 7  -  Thunder Bay to Sault Ste. Marie

Location  /  Date Time camp to camp Time on bike Max. speed Avg. speed Distance Trip to date (km.)
Nipigon 12:30 7:09 53.4 18.0 127.5 3060.7
Terrace Bay 8:03 5:27 50.0 19.7 107.5 3168.2
White Lake 9:22 6:48 48.9 19.2 130.4 3298.6
Rabbit Blanket 10:50 8:24 50.7 19.5 163.7 3462.3
Pancake Bay 8:25 6:01 53.0 19.7 119.7 3582.0
Sault Ste. Marie 8:00 4:34 41.0 19.2 87.7 3669.7

 

 

 

Segment 6 – Kenora to Thunder Bay, Ontario

Segment 6  -  Kenora to Thunder Bay

The warm, dry bed was tough to leave.  Our accommodations for the last two nights at the Comfort Inn rested us well.  After grabbing lunch and daily needs from the campsite, we departed Kenora.  Rain had started.  And, not far into the ride, Joyce experienced a flat, her second so far.  Fortunately, the tire held after I pumped it up.  On we went.  About 10:10 am., with a compliment of riders already there, we patronized the remote Willard Lake Motel Resort.  The resort, staffed only by the owner, had seen better days, but the coffee and toast that Joyce and I enjoyed was timely and welcomed.  Two other stops during the day slowed our progress, first at an isolated motel’s picnic table, then at a store in Vermillion Bay where an ice cream bar went down nicely.  From there, a group of seven rode past farmers’ fields into camp at Springwater Campground.  The campground has seen better days, too, with the facilities in dire need of attention.  The group made do.

lunch at an isolated motel picnic bench

lunch at an isolated motel picnic bench

DSC_0008That night about 8:40 pm., as usual, we were in bed and asleep in our Eureka Kananaskis 4 tent, worry free.  About 12:40 am., I awakened to close the tent flap due to rain.  No sooner had I reclined again when powerful winds upended the tent.  Joyce awakened quickly.  The two of us had difficulty holding down the tent.  The fly had come off and the rain drenched us for ten minutes.  Lightning and thunder were too close.  Once the storm had abated, I got out to see the tent badly damaged.   I rendered it as sleepable as possible.  Even with our thermarests floating in a quarter inch of water, Joyce and I huddled together to enjoy another four hours of sleep.

DSC_0014DSC_0015DSC_0016

Exiting the tent at 5:20 that morning, it was obvious that we weren’t the only ones to have been wrecked.  Although ours was worst, other tents had sustained damaged.  A thirty-foot tree about ten metres downwind had been blown over.  Hydro was out.  Eric, a fellow rider, commented, “Now I’m convinced I shouldn’t sleep naked!”.

DSC_0018

So, what now?  With no tent, we had no accommodations for the remaining three nights into Thunder Bay, where, during a scheduled rest day, we’d enjoy two nights in a Lakehead U. residence.  John Kennedy, a retired O.P.P. officer living in Dryden, whom we’d met the night before, was curious and came to the campground to see how the group had fared.  Generously, John offered to drive Joyce and me into Thunder Bay, four hundred kilometres distant, where we’d spend three days and shop for a new tent.

About 3:00 pm., 19 July, John delivered us to Lakehead U. residence.  Reluctantly, we bid farewell to a generous, ex-colleague who returned to Dryden immediately.  The highlights of the next three days included enjoying the residences’ long, hot showers and ample food in the cafeteria, having a great meal at the Keg, and, of course, purchasing a new tent, a Marmot Limelight 3 (3-person, 3-season).

When the other riders arrived in Thunder Bay Sunday, 21 July for our scheduled rest day, a supper of lasagna, salad, and garlic bread, which we’d prepared, was ready for the tired, hungry, appreciative riders.  The meal was a good beginning to our two-night stay in Thunder Bay.

Segment 6  -  Kenora to Thunder Bay

Location  /  Date Time camp to camp Time on bike Max. speed Avg. speed Distance Trip to date
Dryden, On 9:18 6:58 48.1 20.2 140.9 2933.2
Taylor Cove missed          
Quetico Park missed          
Thunder Bay missed         2933.2